cities

Dong Hoi

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WBP almanac

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Wikivoyage

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From Wikipedia175 words

WBP editorial3

Gateway to the central coast

Dong Hoi sits at the mouth of the Perfume River, an unglamorous checkpoint that belies its role as the logistical hub for the central Vietnamese coastline. Most travellers use it as a staging point for the famed Phong Nha‑Ke Bang karst landscape, yet the city’s own riverine promenades offer a surprisingly relaxed counterpoint to the rugged limestone scenery beyond. Early‑morning ferries glide past the colonial‑era railway station, where vintage French signage hints at a layered past. Grab a seat at a riverside café, sip locally roasted coffee, and watch the blend of motorbikes and cargo barges—a daily choreography that frames the city’s quiet resilience.

Eating beyond the tourist menu

While the street stalls on Nguyen Thien Thuat specialise in low‑fat pork rolls, the true culinary narrative of Dong Hoi unfolds in its modest family‑run eateries. Seek out the neighbourhood market on Thuy Van to sample freshly caught clams seasoned with lemongrass and fermented shrimp paste – a flavour that rarely appears on guidebooks. In the evenings, the city’s older population gathers at modest tea houses, where a simple cup of jasmine tea accompanies conversation about the Gulf of Tonkin’s tides. These modest settings provide a window into everyday life, far removed from the polished plates served to cruise tourists.

A quieter alternative to Hue

Travelers often bypass Dong Hoi for the imperial capital of Hue, yet the two cities sit only a two‑hour train ride apart, offering contrasting atmospheres. Where Hue feels like a museum of dynastic grandeur, Dong Hoi feels lived‑in, with its modest waterfront boulevards and low‑rise apartments. For those seeking a slower rhythm after exploring Hue’s citadel, a night in Dong Hoi allows for a reset: stroll along the river’s edge, watch the lanterns flicker on fishing boats, and enjoy the proximity to beaches that are less crowded than those farther south. The city’s unpretentious charm makes it a useful counterbalance to the pomp of its neighbour.

Introduction

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