Esmeraldas

Coastal rhythm and Afro‑Ecuadorian pulse

Beyond the name, the city’s streets echo with a percussion that stems from its Afro‑Ecuadorian heritage. Small cafés on the waterfront often host impromptu drum circles where locals blend traditional marimba with contemporary beats. Visitors who linger after sundown can sip cacao‑infused coffee while watching dancers in vibrant skirts perform a salty‑air waltz, a ritual that has survived colonial reshaping. This living soundtrack offers a texture that no guidebook can capture, inviting travelers to sync their own pace with the tide‑driven tempo of daily life.

A culinary detour: seaweed and plantain markets

While the region is famed for its seafood, the real flavour adventure lies in the modest market stalls that line the early‑morning promenade. Here, pickled seaweed—harvested from the nearby mangroves—is paired with fried plantains, creating a salty‑sweet bite that locals swear balances the ocean’s brine. The best way to experience it is to join a resident vendor during the pre‑breakfast rush, when the air smells of frying oil and tropical fruit, and ask for a tasting before the crowd arrives.

When the rains swing the city’s colour palette